Farallones de Cali Natural National Park, the Land of the Tororoi Bailador

In west of the city of Cali you will find páramos, waterfalls, trails, mountains and rivers hidden in the  youngest rock formations of the Western Cordillera of the Andes: Farallones de Cali Natural National Park.

This protected area, distinguished by its majestic blue peaks that rise above a plain that separates the basins of the Pacific and the Cauca River, is recognized for its great natural wealth and therefore becomes a must-see destination when it comes to nature tourism in this region of the country.

Below you will get the information you need to enjoy and fall in love with the largest natural reserve in Valle del Cauca.

Discovering Farallones de Cali Natural National Park

Farallones de Cali National Park is located in southwestern Colombia, in the department of Valle del Cauca, between the municipalities of Cali, Jamundí, Dagua and Buenaventura, covering an area of 1,500 km².

The “farallones” are rock formations of about 20 million years ago, being the youngest of the Western Cordillera of the Andes, formed by the folding of the South American and Nazca tectonic plates.

The protected area is the largest in Valle del Cauca and allows the conservation of more than 540 bird species and more than 30 rivers that originate there. The rivers and streams that originate in this area are divided into two basins: the Cauca and Pacific basins, and supply the southwestern part of Colombia.

Pance Peak, Farallones de Cali National Park, CC Parques Nacionales Archives

The elevation gradient is between 200 and 4,100 meters above sea level, where the following ecosystems are present:

  • Tropical Rainforest (200 and 1,200 meters above sea level);
  • Humid Sub-Andean Forest (1,200 and 2,000 meters above sea level);
  • Humid High Andean Forest (2,000 and 3,500 meters above sea level) and
  • Páramo (above 3,500 meters above sea level).

Farallones de Cali NNP has the only paramo ecosystem in Colombia that does not have frailejones. However, the park is considered one of the richest in flora and fauna Colombia.

How to get to Farallones de Cali Natural National Park

Bogotá-Palmira-Pance

Take a 145- minutes flight from El Dorado Bogotá (BOG) to Alfonso Bonilla Aragón International Airport (CLO) at Palmira city. Once at the airport, take an approximately 45- minutes ride to Pance at Centro de Educación Ambiental El Topacio.

What to do in Farallones de Cali NNP

Colombia’s National Natural Parks announced that as a contribution to the country’s economic reactivation and as a continuation of the reopening of protected areas with an ecotourism vocation, the Farallones de Cali National Natural Park reopened its doors so that visitors can enjoy its natural and cultural values.

Authorized sectors for entry

The organization, in charge of administering and managing the Natural Parks System and coordinating the National System of Protected Areas of Colombia, announced the following points that will be authorized for visitors:

  • Puesto de atención a visitantes el Topacio, located in Vereda el Topacio Corregimiento de Pance, Distrito de Cali, access to the attractive Pico de Loro.
  • Quebradahonda Visitor Service Station, located in the Quebradahonda Village, Corregimiento de los Andes, District of Cali, access to the Peñas Blancas attraction.
  • Km 81 Visitor Service Station, located in La Cascada, municipality of Dagua, access to the Cañón del Anchicayá attraction.

Schedules and measures to take into account

National Parks informed that visitors will be able to enjoy the protected area “in day trip mode” and it is important to follow the instructions of the park rangers, the National Police and members of the communities that provide ecotourism support.

The entrance hours are from 6:00 a.m. to 8:00 a.m. and the departure time should be no later than 5:00 p.m.

Biosecurity protocols

At the same time, the entity highlighted the recommendations and biosecurity protocols, which have been developed given the pandemic situation and among which are: maintaining social distance, permanent use of masks and glycerin alcohol, as well as avoiding crowds.

Additionally, the tourist load capacity of each of the trails has been reduced to 30% for this reopening stage, and also police accompaniment is provided.

What to enjoy in Los Farallones?

In this protected area you can spot species such as the spectacled bear and the anteater, along with guans, chachalacas, parrots and eagles.

Los Farallones de Cali National Natural Park, located in the Western Cordillera of Colombia, allows visitors to enjoy relaxing landscapes, which are also home to marsupials and monkeys, as well as camping and hiking activities.

Hiking

Hiking is an exciting activity in Farallones de Cali National Park. You can hike on 4 trails: Pico de Loro Trail; Burbujas Trail; Peñas Blancas Trail and Anchicayá Canyon.

  • Pico de Loro Trail: Starting point 1718 masl to 2860 masl arrival point. Difficulty level: Medium – High and maximum capacity of 50 people per day. (3 hours)
  • Burbujas Trail: Starting point 1676 masl to 1735 masl arrival point. Degree of difficulty: Low and maximum capacity of 267 people per day.
  • Peñas Blancas Trail: Starting point 1987 masl to 2886 masl arrival point. Degree of difficulty: Medium – High and maximum capacity of 50 people per day.
  • Anchicayá Canyon: It is a natural well with a depth of approximately 80 cm to 6 meters. Degree of difficulty: Low-Medium and maximum capacity of 200 people per day.

Birdwatching

Tororoi Bailador. CC Diego Calderón (Colombia Birding)

The most representative birds of the park are the:

  • Long-wattled umbrellabird (Cephalopterus penduliger);
  • Multicolored Tanager (Chlorochrysa nitidissima);
  • Yellow-green tanager (Chlorospingus flavovirens);
  • Cauca guan (Penelope perspicax);
  • Andean Cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruviana);
  • Banded ground cuckoo (Neomorphus radiolosus); and,
  • Baudó guan (Penelope ortoni).

Land of the Tororoi Bailador, or the Dancing Grallaria

Species number 562 was named Tororoi Bailador, which was discovered in the Dagma conservation area, immersed in the Farallones de Cali National Natural Park.

Thus, the Tororoi Bailador is an endemic bird recorded in the park, and it is known to be present in five rural territories near the park.

Wildlife Tours

In Farallones de Cali NNP you can observe small bats up to pumas, in addition to panthers, ocelots, foxes and spectacled bears.

The amphibian community includes the Lehman’s poison dart frog, Oophaga lehmanni. Check our dart frogs tour here.

Orchids tours are also a very well developed activity to do in the park. Know more about orchids of Colombia in our entry The Richest Country in Orchids in the World: Colombia.

Where to stay in Farallones de Cali NNP

Thanks to the proximity of Farallones de Cali NNP with the city of Cali it is not necessary to stay overnight in the park.

We recommend you to stay in Cali, where there are plenty of nice hotels you can stay. Our recommendations for you are:

  • Hotel Casa del Hidalgo
  • Hotel Dann Carton Cali
  • Cali Marriot Hotel

Best time to visit Farallones de Cali NNP

We recommend that you visit the park during the 2 dry seasons, between the months of January and March, and between July and August.

Keep in mind that Farallones de Cali NNP has an average temperature of 25º C (77º F) in most of the marked trails but in the summits it has a temperature of 5º C (41º F).

Farallones de Cali NNP Entrance fees

Farallones de Cali NNP does not currently charge admission to visitors.

What to consider before visiting Farallones de Cali NNP

  • The park currently has regulated access, so you must request access to the following email farallones@parquesnacionales.gov.co.
  • The hours of entry and permanence of the trails allowed in the park are:
    • Pico de Loro Trail: Entrance from 6 am to 8 am; departure 4 pm maximum;
    • Burbujas – Pance: Entrance from 6 am to 5 pm;
    • Peñas Blancas Trail: Entrance from 6 am to 8 am; departure 4 pm maximum;
    • Anchicayá Canyon: stay from 7 am to 5 pm.
    • The Pico Pance trail is currently restricted because it is in an intangible zone.
  • The entry of pets or domestic animals is prohibited.
  • The use of flash when taking photographs is prohibited.
  • Use of binoculars to watch animals’ behavior is recommended.
  • Bring along valid identification documents and health insurance.
  • It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you a personal first aid kit.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Parques Nacionales
  • Colombia.travel
  • Colparques
About the authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

The Southwestern Andes Birding Trail of Colombia

The Southwestern Andes Birding Trail of Colombia is probably the most diverse with nearly 1,400 bird species between the departments of Valle del Cauca, Cauca and Nariño.

In this region, you have contact with the Western Andes mountain range, the Choco Region, and the Pacific ocean.

The most relevant birding hotspots of this route are the Choco Forest and the Andean Cloud forests of the western cordillera.

The diversity of this route is explained because it covers many different habitats such as paramos, wetlands, Andean cloud forests, tropical rainforest, coastal areas, dry forest and very nice bird-lodges and farms dedicated to bird photography.

The Southwestern Andes Birding Trail

The National Audubon Society of the United States was involved in the design of this route along with the government of Colombia and Calidris NGO to help the country reach its goal of becoming the world’s top birding destination.

The training of stakeholders linked to the birding offer in the region was the main activity, including local guides, owners of lodges, farms and nature reserves, and community-based tourism associations.

Among the places to be visited are included national parks, civil society nature reserves, and private reserves.

Birding Spots of The Southwestern Andes Birding Trail

You should know that in the past, this region was not a safe place. Nowadays, birding tourism and related stakeholders are becoming:

active drivers in conservation, economic development, and peace-building”

For that reason, there are still some destinations with difficult access, and poor hotel infrastructure, especially towards the Pacific region in Valle del Cauca and Nariño.

Itinerary

The following itinerary is just an example of the route you can take. However, if you want to see more options, visit the itinerary designed by us.

Remember that you can customize your trip with us. Don’t miss the opportunity to add other activities such as whale watching; a city tour in Cali, the city of salsa music; an urban birding day also in Cali; a stop in the beautiful city of Popayan in the department of Cauca; or visit the paramos and volcanic lakes of Nariño, among many other activities, either alone or with your family.

Given the wide offer of destinations on this route, here are the main stops in each department. If you want to know more about each destination, I recommend you to visit the entries we prepared for you about them.

You can also visit our Youtube channel ColombiaFrank, where you will find first hand information about many of these destinations.

Valle del Cauca

Western Andes Cloud Forests

Wetlands – Sonso Lagoon

  • Laguna Sonso
  • Gota de Leche

Choco region – Anchicaya

  • El Descanso km 55
  • Upper Anchicaya
  • Aguasclaras
  • Lower Anchicaya
  • Buenaventura*

Following the path of the Anchicaya River as it descends through the western Andes to meet the Pacific Ocean, the old road from Buenaventura, mostly abandoned, offers incredible birding.

One of the most famous places in this point is the restaurant El descanso km 55, read our entry about this place Best Set to Photography Tropical Rainforest Birds at Upper Anchicayá.

Among the more than 500 species that have been recorded along the road are about 50 species endemic to the region.

The Pacific lowlands of the San Cipriano Reserve

  • San Cipriano Reserve
  • La Delfina
  • Buenaventura*

The Pacific rainforest of San Cipriano is incredibly humid, very lush and home to Chocó endemics, including the Five-colored Barbet, Chocó Toucan, Chocó Woodpecker, Rose-faced Parrot, Stub-tailed Antbird, Bicolored Antbird, and Black-tipped Cotinga.

*From here you can continue to Buenaventura for seabird watching on the Pacific coast. This point was not included in the official route, but if you have time, you can visit it in a day trip.

Cauca

Paramos in Puracé National Park and the Central Andes

From Valle, the route goes into the south of the department of Cauca to observe the Central Andes and the páramo where you can see the Andean condor.

At the end of the day you can enjoy a bath in the volcanic springs of Coconuco, where the thermal waters have been diverted to a series of pools, each at a different temperature.

Dry Forest in the Patía Valley

Descending from the páramo, the itinerary concludes in the dry forest of the Patía Valley, located only 600 meters above sea level. The dry forest is a very different habitat where you can find Blue Ground-Dove, Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Apical Flycatcher (endemic), and the Scarlet-backed Woodpecker.

Nariño Extension (Optional)

Birders with extra time and a thirst for adventure should continue south to the department of Nariño, a former conflict zone that is newly accessible to visitors.

Nariño is rather more rustic than Valle or Cauca, but features fantastic birding, especially in the rainforests of the Pacific slope.

Among the highlights is La Planada Reserve, which offers some of the best birding in Colombia. You can also continue on to the Rio ñambi Reserve and the Bangsias Reserve.

Another place that has emerged as an interesting birding destination in Nariño is Tumaco. However, the law and order situation still keeps it on the back foot for tourism development. We do not recommend traveling to this place alone.

As time goes by, the list of Colombian birding trails has grown and you can be sure that you will find fantastic birds in any region of the country.

Recommendations

  • Take waterproof clothing, waterproof boots, and waterproof backpacks to protect your equipment in case of rain.
  • Remember that this whole region has a high relative humidity, so be prepared to keep your equipment safe from excess humidity. In our entry How to Prepare for a Birding Tour in the Neotropics? you will find useful information on this subject.
  • Be always accompanied by a local guide.

If you want to know more about Colombian nature tours contact us and plan your trip with us.

References
  • Birdwatching in Colombia – Procolombia
  • Audubon Society Website
  • The Southwestern Andes Birding Trail
About the author

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Beginners Route Top 9 Birds of Colombia: From the Caribbean to the Andes

While in the world there are more or less 10,000 species of birds, Colombia has around 2000! I know, it is a huge number. But don’t worry, here I will tell you which birds to start with if you are coming for the first time to Colombia to watch birds.

Also, this guide may help you if you don’t have much experience with birding, or if you don’t feel like traveling to difficult or remote destinations. Moreover, if you are not sure about your birding style, visit our entry What Kind of Birder You Think You Are – Birding Colombia, and find out the best birding trip options for you.

The Beginners Route to the Top 9 Birds of Colombia

You will see these spectacular birds in places that are equally interesting, varied and fun. Besides, with the excuse of knowing these birds, you will be visiting half of the country, from the Caribbean to the Andes.

First Stop: The Caribbean

Start your trip visiting La Guajira and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Find out more information about birding in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in our entry Colombia’s Prime Birding Destination: Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Regarding La Guajira and the Caribbean Dry Forest birding destinations, please visit our entry Discover the Caribbean Dry Forest Birding Trail of Colombia.

1. Vermilion Cardinal

Vermilion Cardinal – Cardinalis phoeniceus

This is a bird endemic to the Colombian Caribbean and Venezuela. In Colombia, it is found only in the dry forests of La Guajira.

It is a very easy bird to observe. You will spend a fantastic day in the company of a local indigenous guide from the Wayuu community. Plus: Lunch at the beach!

If you have enough time, you can visit the Los Flamencos Flora and Fauna Sanctuary, another beautiful attraction of the region.

Where to Stay: Hotel Taroa

2. Santa Marta Brush-finch

Santa Marta Brushfinch – Atlapetes melanocephalus

This is an endemic bird of Colombia that lives in the shrubby edges of the rainforest and secondary forests, between 1,500 and 3,200 m  (4921 – 10498 ft) of altitude, in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Knowing this bird may be one of the best excuses to visit the Sierra Nevada. Besides, it is a bird that has become very comfortable with the presence of tourists.

Although it is not recommended, if you throw it pieces of bread or fruit, it will approach without a doubt. It may even land on your hands just to eat!

Where to Stay: El Dorado Bird Lodge

Second Stop: Santander

Santander is an adventure destination by tradition. There you can find the Chicamocha Canyon, one of the largest in South America. There is also the town of San Gil, the cradle of extreme adventure tourism in Colombia.

3. White-mantled Barbet

White-mantled Barbet – Capito hypoleucus ©CC 2.0 Ron Knight

This is another endemic bird of Colombia, and its distribution is associated with the Magdalena Valley. It can be seen in many places of Antioquia, Caldas, Boyacá, and Santander.

Two of the best places to observe and photograph the Withe-mantled Barbet are the Rio Claro Reserve, 3 hours from Medellin, in the department of Antioquia. Find more information about Rio Claro in our entry #1 Colombia Mid-Magdalena Valley Birding Hotspot: Rio Claro Reserve.

On the other hand, there is the Cerulean Warbler Bird Reserve of Proaves, which is located in the municipality of San Vicente de Chucurí, department of Santander, 87 kilometers from Bucaramanga. From Bucaramanga, you will have an approximate travel time of 2 hours and 20 minutes.

Where to Stay: Cerulean Warbler Bird Reserve of Proaves

Third Stop: Antioquia

Does Guatapé sound familiar? Antioquia is a department with an immense wealth of nature destinations that have been little explored.

It is also home to several towns in the network of Colombia’s Heritage Villages, such as Jardín, Santa Fé de Antioquia, and Jericó.

4. Andean Cook-of-the-Rock

Andean cock-of-the-rock – Rupicola peruvianus

This is an emblematic bird of the Andean forests. It is very striking for its color and size, and especially when found in groups of males, called leks.

It lives near rivers and rocky areas. Many people travel to distant places to see them under bridges, or, from a considerable distance, on a tree branch.

However, there is a place in Antioquia where you can go to see them easily and up close. It is the private reserve Jardín de Rocas in the municipality of Jardín.

It is worth mentioning that Jardín is one of the most beautiful towns in Colombia and is part of the country’s Network of Heritage Towns. So, it is well worth the visit.

5. Yellow-eared Parrot

Yellow-eared Parrot – Ognorhynchus icterotis

This parrot nests and lives among wax palms in some areas of the Western and Central Cordillera of Colombia. It is also endemic to Colombia. If you are curious about wax palm, then visit our entry The Wax Palm and Why it is a Must to See When Visiting Colombia.

For a long time, this parrot was endangered, and thanks to the efforts of many people and NGO’s this bird is nowadays in a lower category of threat.

The ideal, and safest, place to see it is the Jardín-Riosucio road, between the departments of Antioquia and Caldas. There are some remnants of wax palm forest that have been used for nesting programs for these birds.

Of course, you will have to get there very early!

Where to Stay: Cassa Passiflora Hotel Boutique

Fourth Stop: The Coffee Triangle!

Colombia’s must-see destination par excellence, the coffee region has a lot to offer. It comprises the departments of Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío, in addition to northwestern Tolima, and some parts of Antioquia and Valle del Cauca.

In 2011 UNESCO declared this area a World Heritage Site for its cultural importance and its coffee landscape. Since then, it has been known as the Coffee Cultural Landscape (#PCC).

6. Andean Condor

Andean Condor – Vultur gryphus

It is no longer necessary to go to remote places to see the Andean Condor in Colombia. In Manizales, just 40 min by flight from Bogotá, there is a place called Nido del Cóndor (Condor’s Nest).

This is a hotel placed over a strategic place for the sighting of the Andean Condor. You will have the privilege of observing a pair of condors nesting on the rocky outcrop under the tents of the lodge.

Moreover, you will see them flying over the balcony of your room, entering and leaving their nest. The plateau where these birds nest is one of the three areas known in Colombia where the Andean Condor is found.

Nido del Cóndor is located in the municipality of Villamaría, Caldas, Colombia.

Where to Stay: Nido del Cóndor

7. Tolima Blossomcrown

Tolima Blossomcrown – Anthocephala berlepschi at Ukuku Lodge, Tolima

Among these top 9 birds of Colombia, I included just one hummingbird. However, Colombia is a great destination for hummingbird watching. Find out why in our entry 17 Unique Hummingbirds of Colombia and Where to Find Them.

The Tolima Blossomcrown is a species of hummingbird endemic to Colombia. It is threatened by the loss of its habitat. It is found in tropical montane forests between 1200 and 2300 m  (4921 – 10498 ft) on the eastern slopes of the central cordillera of the Andes.

This bird is very easy to see in the Combeima Canyon, in Tolima. Especially in the Ukuku Lodge, a place that has specialized in attracting birds and hummingbirds.

It loves to visit the gardens of nectar plants grown around the Ukuku’s house.

Where to Stay: Ukuku Lodge.

Fifth Stop: Cali!

Cali is a city with a wide cultural offer, as well as a wide range of natural destinations. If you want to know more about the cultural offer of Cali, visit the Dancing Salsa in Cali Colombia blog on the Pelecanus website.

8. Multicolored Tanager

Multicoloured tanager – Chlorochrysa nitidissima, Valle del Cauca

The Multicolored Tanager is a bird endemic to the western Andes of Colombia. It is considered a winged jewel among the birds of Colombia and is one of the most wanted birds by birdwatchers.

Although it is a common bird moving around the treetops, it is very difficult to see. It always flies on the tallest trees, and it is a very small bird… and it is green! and restless!…

For this reason, some places have concentrated on attracting this bird to feeders in open gardens, to watch them up close.

This is the case of the Minga Ecolodge, a birdlodge near Cali. Every day between 6:00 and 8:00 am you will have the opportunity to see and photograph this beautiful bird.

If you like tanagers a lot, you’ll love our entry Top 7 Most Colorful Tanagers of Colombia and Where to Find Them.

Where to stay: Minga Ecolodge.

Final Stop: Bogotá!

Bogotá is the capital of Colombia. It has many activities to offer in and around the city. There are plenty of birding activities you can do in Bogotá, I wrote about them in our entry Where to go for Birdwatching in Bogotá? Complete Bogotá Bird Guide.

9. Apolinar’s Wren

Apolinar’s Wren – Cistothorus apolinari – ENDEMIC

This is a bird endemic to the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes of Colombia. It was very easy to find in the wetlands of the urban area of Bogotá. However, intense urbanization and pollution have limited its distribution to the páramo areas.

You can drive to the Sumapaz Park and from the road you will have the opportunity to hear it several times and even see it. When we went there, we were lucky, just watch the picture we got!

Find out more details about the Páramo of Sumapaz in our entry The Biggest Páramo in the World is in Colombia: Know the Sumapaz Park.

Where to stay: Muisca Hotel.

For more information about birding trips to Colombia and the birds of Colombia,visit our entry The Complete Colombia Birdwatching Guide: Tourism & Conservation.

If you want to know more about the most incredible natural destinations in Colombia, plan your trip with us!


About the author

Sara Colmenares

Current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism – environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Colombia’s Prime Birding Destination: Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta covers part of the departments of Magdalena, La Guajira and Cesar, and is the highest coastal mountain range in the world. It covers life zones from sea level to the snow belt. Because of the variety of ecosystems, thermal floors by the sea, its unique beauty and cultural richness, it is a unique territory to visit.

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range has been declared a Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site by UNESCO (1979), among other national categories. It is the most endemic rich, continental area in the World. 21 species (and several more subspecies) are confined to the area – many of them carry Santa Marta in their name. The isolated range’s avifauna bares similarities with both Venezuelan mountain ranges to the east, and Andean mountains to the south-west, all adding to the biogeographical complexity of these mountains. 

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta National Park (aka Santa Marta Mountainsis for long and by far Colombia’s prime birding destination. It’s the highest coastal mountain range in South America, the highest peaks – Cristobal Colon & Simon Bolivar – are at the same time the highest ones in Colombia. They tower 5575 meters above sea level. 

Within this mountainous massif there is an area of great cultural significance, considered a sacred place for the four indigenous peoples of the Sierra: the Arhuacos (or Ikas), the Wiwas, the Kogis, and the Kankuamos. This is the Teyuna Archaeological Park “Lost City”, which is administered by the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History – ICANH.

Climate and seasonality

In the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta you can find lowland rainforest (0-1,050 m), premontane rainforest (1,050-1,900 m), paramo (3,400-4,200 m), superparamo (4,200-5,100 m) and snow belt (5,100-5,770 m). The average annual temperature at sea level is 27º C, while at the top of the mountains it drops to 0º C. The annual precipitation is 3,000-4,000 mm and decreases with altitude. The dry season runs from October to November and from June to July.

Cuchilla de San Lorenzo (San Lorenzo Ridge)

The Cuchilla of San Lorenzo is an area within the Sierra Nevada that has been declared an Important Bird Area (IBA). It extends from the town of Minca (600 m), through an extensive area of shade coffee plantations, to the edge of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta National Natural Park.

The Cuchilla de San Lorenzo is very important for the migratory birds that cross the Caribbean. It also contains one of the highest concentrations of endemic species in Santa Marta with the presence of Santa Marta bush-tyrant (Myiotheretes pernix), Santa Marta Parakeet (Pyrrhura viridicata) and Santa Marta Blossomcrown (Anthocephala floriceps) among others.

Most endemic bird species are concentrated in the upper parts of the Cuchilla de San Lorenzo and Cerro Kennedy, a mountain that reaches 2,800 m. Cerro Kennedy has wooded patches, dominated mainly by bamboo and shrubs. This is one of the best areas in Santa Marta to observe endemic and rare species, since it presents 15 species of endemic birds, making it one of the highest concentrations of endemisms in the continent.

In the region, projects that involve the local population have been implemented towards the conservation of the environment. Strategies such as: the production of “Bird Friendly Coffee“, the creation of a “Bird Friendly Club” for children and young people of the region, the installation of monitoring stations for the bird populations and environmental education actions.

Vista de Nieve Farm at Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

On our Sula Fam-Trip we first visited the beautiful coffeeplantation “Finca Vista de Nieve” which caters also for small groups of birders. It’s the ideal place to get away from it all, combine birding with relaxing holidays. Sipping delicious local coffee while watching a beautiful sunset over the Caribbean Sea shall sure do you good. 

The close surroundings of the farm consists of shade grown coffee plantations and some second growth forest – both excellent habitat for birding. With an elevation of about 1300 m. asl. Many of the Santa Marta foothill specialties are found here. During our comfortable 2-night stay the we observed exquisite species like Black-fronted Wood-QuailScaled PiculetSanta Marta AntbirdSlate-crowned AntpittaSanta Marta TapaculoSanta Marta Foliage-gleanerStreak-capped Spinetail, Sierra Nevada Brushfinch & White-lored Warbler. 

A walk down the access road to Vista Nieves through a mosaic of coffee plantations and second growth forest can turn up some nice mixed flocks and especially Spectacled Tyrannulet and Santa Marta Blossomcrown. The latter visits flowering plants in gardens of local farmers & roadside shops. 

In order to see most of the area’s endemics it’s necessary to visit different elevations.

El Dorado Lodge

The centerpiece of a visit to the Santa Marta Mountains is the El Dorado Lodge 2000 m. asl., owned and managed by the ProAves foundation. It has several trails into good forest, excellent hummingbird feeders and access to the Cuchilla San Lorenzo is way more convenient from here. The immediate area around the lodge is best for the recently described Santa Marta Screech-OwlWhite-tipped QuetzalBlack-throated Tody-TyrantGolden-breasted Fruiteater & Santa Marta Brushfinch. The lodge’s compost pile attracts regularly Band-tailed GuanBlack-fronted Wood-Quail and Sierra Nevada Brushfinch. The hummingbird feeders host large numbers of Brown VioletearCrowned Woodnymph and rarer species like Lazuline Sabrewing and even White-tailed Starfrontlet. 

From the lodge the road winds up the mountain and end at the exposed Cuchilla de San Lorenzo at 2600 m. asl. It’s only an 8 km long ride but on an extremely rough, bumpy road. This has the benefit that it prevents general tourism invading the area. Plans to build a concrete road up to the ridge have fortunately been stalled. The environmental impact would have been disastrous. The road ends at the ProAves reserve, which was established to protect the ParakeetsIt is the only accessible site to see this endangered species. If you stay at the lodge you have access to an observation tower, but you can see the Santa Marta Parakeet elsewhere along the ridge first thing in the morning. If you have a scope scan the Eucalyptus tree in front of the tower. At times they are frequented by Black-backed Thornbills. 

The view from here is one of the most impressive vistas in the country. You bird along a roughly 1 km long stretch on a trail in stunted elfin forest. Black-backed Thornbill (rare), Santa Marta Sabrewing (extremely rare)Brown-rumped Tapaculo, Santa Marta AntpittaRusty-headed Spinetail, Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant (rare) Hermit Wood-Wren, Black-cheeked Mountain-TanagerSanta Marta Brushfinch, Santa Marta WarblerYellow-crowned Redstart occur here and are all endemic! For Santa Marta Wren and Blue-bearded Helmetcrest you have to mount a multi-day expedition in order to access proper habitat. 

Unfortunately, the excessive use of playback by everybody have had impact on the birds. Several species don’t respond anymore to it at all, and got very difficult to see… 

Santa Marta Biological Station

If you’ve been efficient on the ridge or your time is limited you can visit the Santa Marta Biological Station on your way back. But you have to arrive there at 9am – that’s feeding time for Santa Marta AntpittaAt current state it is not possible to stay there overnightbecause of a turnover of the station’s manager. 

Minca

For those with a little more time, a visit to the lovely and touristy town of Minca might well be taken into consideration. It’s year-round spring-like climate, many hiking opportunities, good food & charming hotels offer something for everybody. There’s some good birding around Minca, too. Species like Military MacawScaled PiculetVenezuelan FlycatcherRosy Thrush-Tanager & Golden-winged Sparrow occur within close reach of town.  


References

  • BirdLife International (2020) Important Bird Areas factsheet: Cuchilla de San Lorenzo. Downloaded from http://www.birdlife.org on 25/08/2020.
  • System of National Natural Parks Website
  • Macaulay Library archive Website

About the authors

Sara Colmenares

Current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism – environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Jérôme Fischer

Professional bird guide, swiss native, with more than 32 years of experience guiding hardcore birders and birdwatching tours. Jérôme has been focused in bird identification. He also travelled many countries,  starting in Switzerland. Then he traveled exploring south America, the most biodiverse continent in the world, becoming specialized in Neotropical birds.

5 New Reasons to Come to Colombia to Watch Birds

Colombia has 4 new bird species to add to its already large list. This is great news not only to encourage you to come to Colombia, but to visit the Neotropics for bird watching! Update your records, notebooks, and wishlists with the new Colombian Antpittas!

What is an Antpitta?

Brown-banded Antpitta (Grallaria milleri)

Antpittas are walker, vocal, small, round, stubby, long-legged, pale and grayish birds that live in the rainforests of the Andes. They look more like an egg with legs (and feathers)… This is a very particular group of species, and they are known as the ghosts of the forest, since you can hear them loud and clear, even feel that they are singing at your feet, but you can hardly ever see them.

As they are birds that move around on the forest floor looking for worms, their favourite food, they have plumages that are very difficult to differentiate from fallen leaves and trunks. Despite this, they are very docile animals that can be easily conditioned to visit “artificial” feeding grounds. However, a lot of commitment and punctuality is needed, as these birds are very regular in their daily journeys and always arrive at the same time to the visiting points.

So much so that when you go on a birding tour that includes a visit to a place with specialized feeding grounds for Grallarias, you have to be the most punctual in life! Because if you miss it, the bird doesn’t come back until the next day. And on these tours there is no next day in the same place, unless you want to. It is usual to see birders settling in up to an hour before the Grallarias cross the feeding points, making sure to have all their equipment ready for when the bird appears.

First it announces itself with its song, then it appears like a ballerina on stage, jumping through the foliage, until it reaches the point where its food has been placed. Sometimes, if there is a lot of noise, it appears in the biggest of silences, eats its worm and leaves without being noticed.

How many Colombian Antpittas are?

So far in Colombia, up to 27 species have been recorded within the family Grallariidae, with 4 endemic species and 16 endemic subspecies. But all that changed in July 2020, when two studies on the taxonomy and phylogenetic diversity of the Grallaria rufula complex changed everything (to the regret of many birders, once again the scientists messing things up!)

The Grallaria rufula blakei complex

The Grallaria rufula blakei complex was considered to consist of 2 species and 7 subspecies distributed from southern Peru to the Colombian Caribbean: the Rufous Antpitta, Grallaria rufula (Lafresnaye, 1843), and the Chestnut Antpitta, Grallaria blakei (Graves, 1987).

Plumage in the G. rufula blakei complex contributed heavily to the traditional classification and description of species and subspecies. Among plumage characteristics, the only characters that show appreciable variation are (1) color of the back, head, and breast, which ranges from olive-gray brown; (2) color or patterning of the belly, including the extent of white coloration; (3) in some cases a contrasting light feather tips and the presence of indistinct barring on the lower and (4) presence or absence of a dull whitish eye-ring.

New Discoverings

Studies on genetics and vocalization led to split this Grallaria rufula complex from two, G. rufula (Rufous Antpitta) and G. blakei (Chestnut Antpitta), to sixteen established species distributed along the Andean Mountain Range from southern Peru to the Colombian Caribbean. Seven of them had no name! Leaving Peru with 10 new species, 8 of which are endemic, and Colombia with 5 species, of which 4 are new species and two of them are endemic!

Approximate geographic ranges of all taxa in the Rufula-rufocinerea-blakei Complex as a reference to update your records, notebooks, and wishlists. From the two sister papers: Isler et al. Zootaxa 2020; Chesser et al. Auk 2020 @amcuervo

So, now Colombia has 32 species within the family Grallariidae, with 7 endemic species and 12 endemic subspecies, and more are coming!

Five New Reasons to come to Colombia!

The Rufous Antpitta was distributed throughout the three Andean mountain ranges of Colombia and in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and Serranía del Perijá. With this study, it was found that practically every population in each mountain range and mountain system corresponded to a different species for the Colombian Antpittas group:

Maps with the approximate geographic ranges of the new Colombian Antpittas. From the two sister papers: Isler et al. Zootaxa 2020; Chesser et al. Auk 2020 @amcuervo

1. Perijá Antpitta – G. saltuensis.

481Perijá Antpitta – Grallaria saltuensis. Photo by @amcuervo

Almost endemic species which is only found in the Departments of La Guajira and Cesar in Colombia, and Zulia in Venezuela. It is found between 2500 and 3250 masl.

  • Where to find it? This species can be found in the sector of Manaure Balcón del Cesar, in the department of Cesar, in the Serranía del Perijá (watch our video). There are several places where you can stay there: Centro Turístico y Ecológico Villa Adelaida, in the lower part of the Serranía, or in the Perijá Thistletail natural bird reserve, towards the higher part.

2. Sierra Nevada Antpitta – G. spatiator

Sierra Nevada Antpitta – Grallaria Spatiator. Picture by @amcuervo

Endemic to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Magdalena, La Guajira and Cesar Departments of Colombia. It is found between 2200 and 2900 masl.

  • Where to find it? After the town of Minca, in Magdalena, arriving to the sector of the San Lorenzo Ridge. There are several lodging options in the region including a coffee farm Vista de Nieve, the nature reserve El Dorado, and even rural lodging closest to the San Lorenzo Ridge.

3. Muisca Antpitta – G. rufula

Muisca Antpitta – Grallaria rufula. Picture by @amcuervo

It is endemic to the Eastern Cordillera and with a distribution almost parallel to that of the indigenous people of the Muiscas. Its new english name honors this indigenous people of the Cundinamarca-Boyacá highlands.  It is found between 1850 and 3800 masl.

  • Where to find it? In Colombia it distributes from the Eastern Andes in Norte de Santander, and south to Cundinamarca and western Meta. This species can be found very close to Bogotá, in the national natural park Chingaza. And very probably in the surroundings of Bogotá in private Nature Reserves like El Encenillo.

4. Equatorial Antpitta – G. saturata

Equatorial Antpitta – Grallaria saturata. Picture by @amcuervo

Subspecies resurrected and elevated to species. It includes the population of the Iguaque Massif in Boyacá and the Central Cordillera from Caldas, through Ecuador, to northern Peru. It is found between 2550 to 3650 masl.

  • Where to find it? In Colombia you can find this species at the Coffee Axes. You can find it on the Jardín-Riosucio road, or on the road to the Nevado del Ruiz in Caldas. You have many lodging options in these regions, in addition to a large number of other bird species that you can observe there.  There is a very special place, where spaces have been adapted for the photography of this bird. It is called Hacienda el Bosque, a dairy farm that has also bet on conservation through ecotourism, just 30 minutes from the city of Manizales. The grallaria that arrives at its feeders is called Juliana.

5. Chamí Antpitta – G. alvarezi

Chamí Antpitta – Grallaria alvarezi Cuervo, Cadena, Isler & ChesserPicture by Eddie Williams @Eddiewilliams09 @amcuervo

It is the new endemic to the Western Cordillera of Colombia, from Paramillo, northwestern Antioquia, south to northwestern Cauca. It is distributed between 2350 to 3650 m.

  • Where to find it? It is distributed from Paramillo Natural National Park, through Urrao, Jardín-Riosucio road, and Tatamá, Farallones de Cali and Munchique Natural National Parks, in Risaralda, Valle del Cauca and Cauca respectively. You have many lodging options in these regions, in addition to a large number of other bird species that you can observe there. There is a very nice rural tourism initiative for bird watching in the town of Riosucio, department of Caldas, where you can observe these birds, it is called Bird Watching Mirador El Roble. There, some farmers installed feeders and receive an infinity of birds, including the Chamí Antpitta. Contact us if you want to know the details.

The Importance of Species Names

The Chamí Antpitta had no name, and the scientists took the opportunity to honor two very important people. The scientific name of the Chamí Antpitta honors Colombian ornithologist Mauricio Alvarez Rebolledo, leader of many biological expeditions during Colombia’s worst period of political instability in the 1990s and early 2000s. His role has been very important in the areas of conservation and education. Mauricio Alvarez pioneered bird song recording in the country and founded the Environmental Sounds Collection at the Alexander Von Humboldt Institute.

The english name, Chamí Antpitta, was also given to honor “the people of the mountains”, the indigenous community of the Emberá-Chamí that inhabits the foothills of the northwestern Andes in Colombia. Chamí means “mountain” in the Emberá language.

Ornithologist Andres Cuervo, one of the authors of the study, said that the English name assigned to these species (Muisca and Chamí) is intended to appropriate the species in the country. Also to associate them directly with its geographical location and with the cultural context of the region where they are distributed. It is very special that these indigenous communities still exist in Colombia and it is also important to recognize them in academic and tourism spaces.

Current list of endemic and near-endemic Colombian Antpittas

Endemic species of Colombian Antpittas

  1. Santa Marta Antpitta (Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta) Grallaria bangsi
  2. Cundinamarca Antpitta (Eastern Andes) Grallaria kaestneri
  3. Sierra Nevada Antpitta (Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta) Grallaria spatiator
  4. Muisca Antpitta (Eastern Andes)  Grallaria rufula
  5. Chamí Antpitta (Western Andes)  Grallaria alvarezi
  6. Urrao Antpitta (Western Andes) Grallaria urraoensis
  7. Brown-banded Antpitta (Central Andes) Grallaria milleri 

Endemic subspecies of Colombian Antpittas

  1. Ruffous-crowned Antpitta (Pacific Region) Pittasoma rufopileatum rosenbergi  Pittasoma rufopileatum harterti
  2. Giant Antpitta (Southern Central Andes) Grallaria gigantea lehmanni
  3. Moustached Antpitta (Western and Central Andes) Grallaria alleni alleni 
  4. Bicolored Antpitta (Central Andes) Grallaria rufocinerea rufocinerea
  5. Chestnut-naped Antpitta (Colombian Andes) Grallaria nuchalis ruficeps
  6. White-bellied Antpitta (Central and Eastern Andes) Grallaria hypoleuca hypoleuca
  7. Streak-chested Antpitta (Northern Andes) Hylopezus perspicillatus pallidior
  8. White-lored Antpitta (South Colombia Andes – Amazon foothills) Hylopezus fulviventris caquetae
  9. Thrush-like Antpitta (Eastern Andes and Serranía de la Macarena Foothills) Myrmothera campanisona modesta
  10. Ochre-breasted Antpitta (Western Andes west side and Northern Central Andes) Grallaricula flavirostris ochraceiventris
  11. Hooded Antpitta (Colombian Andes) Grallaricula cucullata cucullata
  12. Slate-crowned Antpitta (Eastern Andes) Grallaricula nana nana Grallaricula nana hallsi

Now, all that remains is to focus on getting to know these new species in depth, and developing effective conservation strategies for their habitats. There are rumors that there may be more splits and new species in this group. So we have to be prepared!

Nature tourism, once again, appears as a way to keep these species alive, which paradoxically are found in areas that require a high commitment to conservation. So don’t wait and come to Colombia to meet these Andean forest singers! 

References

About the author

Sara Colmenares

Current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism – environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

17 Unique Hummingbirds of Colombia and Where to Find Them

If you’ve heard that Colombia is a hummingbird’s paradise, or that hummingbird heaven is in Colombia, then you weren’t wrong. Colombia is the country with the most species of hummingbirds in the world, above Ecuador, Costa Rica or Peru. Of the 360 species of hummingbirds in the world, in Colombia you can find up to 165 species of hummingbirds. In other words, almost half of the world’s hummingbirds are here in Colombia (45.8%), and we encourage you to come and meet them. And some of them are unique. In this entry we will tell you which species of hummingbirds are endemic to Colombia and where you can find them. This is a list of the unique hummingbirds of Colombia

A molecular phylogenetic study about the diversification of hummingbirds recognize that the Trochilidae family, the hummingbird’s bird family, consists of nine main clades: Topazes, Hermits, Mangoes, Brilliants, Coquettes, Patagona, Mountain Gems, Bees, and Emeralds. In Colombia we have endemic emeralds, coquettes, brilliants and bees hummingbirds.

Hummingbird Groups Adapted from https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2014.03.016

Emeralds

This is the group with the most endemic species in Colombia, with 5 genera and 7 species.

Santa Marta Blossomcrown – Anthocephala floriceps

Santa Marta Blossomcrown – Anthocephala floriceps. Picture from https://www.oiseaux.net/

This species is found in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, commonly recorded towards the flanks facing the Caribbean Sea. It is found between 600 and 1700 meters above sea level. It is a species in a vulnerable conservation category according to the the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List category, henceforth IUCN,  and the Colombian Red List of Birds.

This species is very easy to observe in the gardens of the El Dorado Bird Reserve, located near Minca and the Cuchilla de San Lorenzo, in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Tolima Blossomcrown – Anthocephala berlepschi

Tolima Blossomcrown – Anthocephala berlepschi at Ukuku Lodge, Tolima

This species is found on the western slope of the eastern mountain range of Colombia and the eastern slope of the central mountain range of Colombia, towards the Magdalena River Valley. Its distribution ranges between 1200 and 2300 meters above sea level- It is classified as  vulnerable according to the IUCN and the Red List of Birds of Colombia.

There is a very special place in the department of Tolima, very close to its capital Ibagué, which is the canyon of the Combeima River. There you can visit Anni and Truman, two biologists who are passionate about conservation, bird watching and mountaineering. In their rural lodge Ukuku, the encounter with this small hummingbird is a great experience. They have adapted gardens with native plants and drinkers, specially arranged to attract birds. The Ukuku Rural Lodge is a highly recommended place if you are a bird photographer.

Chiribiquete Emerald – Chlorostilbon olivaresi

Chiribiquete emerald – Chlorostilbon olivaresi. Capture of the first specimen for science. Sierra de Chiribiquete, Guaviare, Caquetá (Colombia) November 1992. Technical data: Ringing Copyright © Facultad de Biología UCM 2020 http://bioimagen.bioucm.es/

This hummingbird is found in the Colombian Amazon region adjacent to the Guyanese shield in the departments of Caquetá and Guaviare. Its distributions ranges between 300 and 600 meters above sea level.

Despite it is not under any serious threat category, there are very few records of this species in Colombia. It is found in remote places where, for a long time, there was no access because of the war. However, it is not free from threats to its habitat. Today you can visit the department of Caquetá and find this bird in the municipality of Solano, very close to the natural National Park Serranía de Chiribiquete, now recognized by UNESCO as a Natural and Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Santa Marta Sabrewing – Campylopterus phainopeplus

Santa Marta Sabrewing – Campylopterus phainopeplus. During fieldwork in the Crossing the Caribbean project, in April 2010, the SELVA researcher Laura Cardenas captured a male Santa Marta Sabrewing (Campylopterus phainopeplus). This is an important record of this species for the region.” http://selva.org.co/es/2010/04/capture-of-the-santa-marta-sabrewing/

This hummingbird is found in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, towards the continental flanks facing east, in the department of Valledupar, and distributes between 1000 and 4800 meters above sea level.

It is an endangered species according to the IUCN, and vulnerable according to the Red List of Birds of Colombia. This is really a very difficult species to observe, and very little is known about it. It has only been reported once by the Selva Foundation near the Vista de Nieve sector, the coffee region in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, up from Minca. Watch our video about Birdwatching in Minca.

Chestnut-bellied hummingbird – Amazilia castaneiventris

Chestnut-bellied hummingbird – Amazilia castaneiventris. Palacio, Rubén. 2011. Wiki Aves Colombia.
(R. Johnston, Editor). Universidad ICESI. Cali. Colombia. https://www.icesi.edu.co/wiki_aves_colombia/tiki-index.php?page_ref_id=1877

This species is found in the San Lucas mountain range in the department of Bolívar, and on the western flank of the eastern cordillera in the department of Santander. It is known to occur between 200 and 2100 meters above sea level and has been declared as an endangered species according to the IUCN and the Colombian Red List of Birds. This species has the distinction of not presenting a marked sexual dimorphism, that is, the male and the female are similar in their plumage.

Visiting the San Lucas Mountains can be a bit complicated, but visiting Santander is very easy and you can find this hummingbird in the municipalities of San Gil and Piedecuesta, very close to the capital Bucaramanga. You can also find it in the Bird Natural Reserve Cerulean Warbler in San Vicente de Chucuri. Even in the center of the town of San Vicente del Chucurí you can find it!

The municipality of Soatá in Boyacá is another destination to watch this bird, where conservation projects are advanced to protect it.

Indigo-capped hummingbird – Amazilia cyanifrons

Indigo-capped hummingbird – Amazilia cyanifrons. Picture by Ron Knight from Seaford, East Sussex, United Kingdom – CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=42656101

This hummingbird is found throughout the western flank of the Colombian Andes and is distributed between 400 and 2600 meters above sea level. It is not under any threat and, like the Chestnut-bellied hummingbird, does not have a remarkable differentiation in plumage between male and female.

This is one of the easiest species of hummingbirds to see in Colombia since only half an hour from Bogotá you can see it in all its splendor in the municipality of San Francisco de Sales, in a place known as El Jardín Encantado. This place belongs to a family that destined the garden of their house to attract different types of birds. They have many native plants with flowers and numbered feeders, which facilitates the observation and photography of birds.

Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird – Lepidopyga liliae

Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird – Lepidopyga liliae. Picture by Elio Rafael Ariza Ramos – CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=69162520

This is one of the most controversial hummingbirds in Colombia. It shares its habitat with a species very similar to it, which is even of the same genus, L. coeruleogularis, known as Sapphire-throated Hummingbird. The distribution of these two species is the same, bordering the entire Caribbean coast of Colombia from the Magdalena to the Urabá region.

As if that were not enough, the two species are very similar and the only difference between them is the extension of the blue spot that extends from the neck to the belly in the male, being very complicated to differentiate, especially between young individuals. Most of the time the only way to differentiate them is through their song.

The Sapphire-bellied hummingbird has been consistently observed between the departments of Atlántico and Magdalena, in the Vía Parque Isla de Salamanca. It is declared critically endangered according to the IUCN and in a vulnerable state according to the Red Book of Birds of Colombia.

Coquettes

This group has 2 genera and 4 species.

Black-backed Thornbill – Ramphomicron dorsale

Black-backed Thornbill – Ramphomicron dorsale. Picture by D. Brinkhuizen. 2015. El Dorado Reserve Magdalena, Colombia (Macaulay Library ML 204884671)

This hummingbird species is found in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, between 2000 and 4500 meters above sea level. It is declared as an endangered species according to the IUCN. This species is very easy to observe in the gardens of the El Dorado Natural Bird Reserve, located near Minca and the Cuchilla de San Lorenzo, in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Buffy Helmetcrest – Oxypogon stuebelii

Buffy Helmetcrest – Oxypogon stubelii at Los Nevados National Park, Brisas sector, Caldas, Colombia

This is one of the species with the smallest distribution in the world, which makes it even more unique, not only because of its beauty or its state of conservation. It is found in the central mountain range of the Colombian Andes between 3200 and 4600 meters above sea level. It is a species in a vulnerable state according to the IUCN and in danger according to the Red List of Birds of Colombia.

Despite its small range this species is very easy to observe in Los Nevados National Natural Park a few hours from the city of Manizales in the department of Caldas. This park has installed in its Brisas station an observation platform for this species. You just have to arrive and have the luck of having a dry climate, a clear sky and a low cloudiness. It is also easy to observe in the gardens conditioned for the observation of birds in the hotel Termales del Ruiz.

Blue-bearded Helmetcrest – Oxypogon cyanolaemus

This is a very rare hummingbird, first found over 100 years ago in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, and then disappeared until 2015 when it was first observed after a long time. It is found between 3200 and 4600 meters above sea level and is a species declared Critically Endangered by the IUCN and Endangered by the Red List of Birds of Colombia.

To observe this hummingbird you have to visit the Lagunas de Sevilla, in the municipality of El Placer, on the way up to the Cristóbal Colón peak in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, one of the highest peaks in Colombia. This paramo region is the habitat of this endemic species of the highest zone of the Sierra Nevada. As well as the other species of this genus, you can observe it fluttering around the frailejones of the páramos. To get there you have to book a special tour service, since it is not a common route for tourists.

Green-bearded helmetcrest – Oxypogon guerinii

Green-bearded helmetcrest – Oxypogon guerinii, female – E, Sumapaz

This hummingbird species has the widest range within the genus Oxypogon. In Colombia it extends over much of the northern part of the eastern mountain range of the Andes, on its eastern flank. Like the other two species, it is only possible to observe it after 3000 meters and up to 4400 meters above sea level. Unlike its close relatives, this species is not endangered.

You can observe this bird very easily in two places very close to the city of Bogotá. One is the Chingaza National Natural Park and the other is the Páramo del Sumapaz National Nature Park in the Chisacá Lagoon. The Páramo de Sumapaz is located within the district of the city of Bogotá, so you can go there very early in the morning and return with time to enjoy a wonderful Santafereño lunch in Bogotá.

Brilliants

This group has 2 genera and 5 species.

Gorgeted puffleg – Eriocnemis isabellae

Gorgeted puffleg – Eriocnemis isabellae. Picture by Alex Cortes 2011 Flickr

This is a truly unique and special hummingbird that was recognized by science as a new species for Colombia in 2007. It was recorded in the department of Cauca, and its distribution is apparently as small as that of Buffy helmetcrest. It was first recorded in the cloud forests of the Serranía del Pinche (Department of Cauca), in the West Andes.

This species has been declared critically endangered according to the IUCN and the Colombian Red List of Birds. Unfortunately, this bird has only been registered by scientists and has never been seen by a tourist or an amateur birder, mainly because the Department of Cauca is one of the departments with the most difficult access in Colombia, due to public order and security problems. Its habitat is seriously threatened by the deforestation of the forest to plant coca crops.

Colorful puffleg – Eriocnemis mirabilis

Colorful puffleg – Eriocnemis mirabilis. Picture by Nigel Voaden. 2010. Cauca, Colombia. eBird Checklist S18312226 (Macaulay Library ML239615281)

This beautiful hummingbird distributes at the western mountain range of the Colombian Andes, between 2100 and 2800 meters above sea level. It is listed as endangered by the IUCN and the Colombian Red List of Birds.

You can get to know this hummingbird at the Munchique National Natural Park in the department of Cauca, at the municipality of El Tambo, 61 km west of Popayán. This park is a hummingbird paradise, as it is home not only to this species, but also to 36 other species of hummingbirds. There are about 500 species of birds in this park, and bird watching is done in the park through a special trail called the Bird and Tanager Trail.

Black Inca – Coeligena prunellei

Black Inca – Coeligena prunellei. Arango, C. 2016. Wiki Aves de Colombia. (C. Arango, Editor). Universidad Icesi. Cali, Colombia. https://www.icesi.edu.co/wiki_aves_colombia/tiki-index.php?page_ref_id=1872

This hummingbird is distributed on the western flank of the eastern mountain range of the Colombian Andes, in the departments of Santander and Boyacá. It is found between 1400 and 2600 meters above sea level and has been declared as vulnerable by the IUCN and as almost threatened in the Red List of Birds of Colombia.

This hummingbird can be easily observed if you visit the Rogitama Civil Society Nature Reserve located in the Corredor Andino de Roble, in Arcabuco, Boyacá, only 3 hours from Bogotá.

White-tailed Starfrontlet – Coeligena phalerata

White-tailed Starfrontlet – Coeligena phalerata. Palacio, Ruben. 2011. Wiki Aves Colombia. (R. Johnston, Editor). Universidad ICESI. Cali. Colombia. https://icesi.edu.co/wiki_aves_colombia/tiki-index.php?page_ref_id=2153

This species is found in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, and is distributed between 1200 and 3300 meters above sea level. It is not under any category of threat. It is very easy to observe in the gardens of the El Dorado Natural Bird Reserve, located near Minca and the Cuchilla de San Lorenzo, in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Dusky Starfrontlet – Coeligena urine

This hummingbird has one of the most beautiful iridescences among hummingbirds, for it shines as if it were made of gold, so much so that in Colombia it is known as the Sun Hummingbird. It is found on the western flank of the western mountain range of the Colombian Andes, in the department of Antioquia. It is a hummingbird that is distributed in highlands, between 3000 and 3500 meters above sea level. It is critically endangered according to the IUCN and as a threatened species according to the Colombian Red List of Birds.

You can observe this hummingbird in the reserve created especially for its conservation, known as Dusky Starfrontlet Bird Reserve de Proaves. It is located in the Vereda El Chuscal, about 17 km north of the municipality of Urrao, Antioquia.

Bees

This group has 1 genus and 1 species.

Santa Marta woodstar – Chaetocercus astreans

This hummingbird inspires a lot of tenderness because of its size and shape. You will not believe how much beauty this tiny creature carries as it flits among the flowers it pollinates and feeds on. This hummingbird is unique to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and is found between 300 and 2800 meters above sea level. Fortunately it is not under any threat category. It is very easy to observe in the gardens of the El Dorado Bird Nature Reserve, located near Minca and the Cuchilla de San Lorenzo, in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

 

Now you know what the rarest and most unique hummingbirds in Colombia are. Do not hesitate to contact us to plan your trip to Colombia and meet these wonderful birds!

About the author

Sara Colmenares

Current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism – environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

#1 Birding Destination in Cesar: Cerro Pintado and Perijá Mountain Range

The Perijá mountain range is located in the north of Colombia and is a territory of great biological importance for the country and humanity due to its unique characteristics and the environmental services it provides in the region.

In addition, it has great cultural importance since it has reservations of the Yuko-Yupka and Bari indigenous peoples, almost extinct ethnic groups.

The economy of the region is based on agriculture and mining. In the agricultural part, permanent crops of oil palm, coffee, cocoa, and livestock stand out. On the other hand, mining focuses on the extraction of coal but it pollutes the sources of water, soil, and air.

The rural population, which suffers from high rates of poverty, has been the main affected by the armed conflict in the past. Community-based tourism, rural tourism, and bird watching tourism are economic alternatives for these communities that, until recently, became peace territories.

Perijá Mountain Range (Serranía del Perijá)

The The Perijá Mountain Range (or Serranía del Perijá) is an isolated, northern extension of Colombia’s East Andean Cordillera. It borders Venezuela for the whole of its north-south alignment.

Due to its independent orogeny from the Andes and other close Mountain Ranges, it hosts highly interesting avifauna and some endemism, although not to the same extent as the Santa Marta Mountains.  

The area is almost completely lacking ornithological coverage and very few expeditions have been undertaken to study the area. This is mainly because of the inaccessibility of the area due to a long and ongoing guerilla presence, enhanced by the Venezuelan crisis and illegal crop plantations.

Efforts of the Colombian military, at least parts of the Colombian side of the mountain range have become accessible to tourists but are still rarely visited by birders.  

While forests on the Colombian side of the accessible areas have been partly cleared, the areas on the Venezuelan have declared a National Park. Although, the ProAves Foundation has established the Perija Bird Reserve that protects some of the most interesting areas higher up in the Sabana Rubia sector. 

Cerro Pintado at Perijá Mountain Range

Cerro Pintado, Perijá Mountain Range, Manaure, Cesar

Cerro Pintado is located in northeastern Colombia, on the western slope of the Perijá mountain range. This area has unique characteristics allowing a vast diversification of different groups of fauna and flora. Its proximity to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and being the transition zone between the Guajira peninsula and the eastern Andes, makes it so special.

The vast majority of the hill is covered by premontane and montane forests which in the higher areas are replaced by paramos. At present, there are strong pressures of colonization, mainly from the lower parts to the higher ones, through the expansion of agriculture and livestock.

This site has been declared an Important Bird Area (IBA), with around 15.000 hectares. It holds significant numbers of globally threatened species, a significant population of range-restricted species, and holds a significant component of the group of species whose distributions are largely or wholly confined to one biome-realm (Know more at Birdlife International Website).

We all were stunned by the beauty of this remote area. The Cerro Pintado delineates the border with Venezuela and stood in the backdrop of the untouched forest below us! 

A Famtrip with Ropero Aventuras

In this perspective, it was a big privilege to visit the area on the Sula Fam Trip in December 2018 for a good 3 days. We were accompanied by Jose Luis Ropero from Ropero Aventuras, who knows the area very well.

If visiting the area as an individual, it is absolutely mandatory to hire a local guide! During our trip, we explored the altitude gradient available from the Colombian side from 800m a.s.l. – 3100m m.a.s.l. 

Vereda San Antonio

On our first morning, we explored the foothills around Manaure and found the beautiful Rosy Thrush-Tanager singing, seconds later posing for pictures sitting in a bush. Climbing the road up to Vereda San Antonio, where we stayed for the night, we found little activity. 

Rosy Thrush–Tanager – Rhodinocichla rosea, Balcón del Cesar, Cesar

The owner of the Finca has serious plans to convert the place into a hotel. During our stay there, several mountain bikers explored the area, and it was nice to see (again, and again), how many parts of Colombia tourism are taking flight.  So many local people put in effort, as they recognize it as a viable and sustainable economy. 

Vereda San Antonio still lacks some basic infrastructure but with the often boundless enthusiasm and energy people put into such projects, this could change very soon… And their location would be exquisite as there are very few other options in the area. 

During our two evening and late morning excursions in the close vicinity of the Finca, we birded some small but very productive woodland patches. We saw the regional endemic Perija TapaculoGrey-throated WarblerPerijá Brushfinch and ssp. nigrifrons of Yellow-breasted Brushfinch (a good species under IOC Taxonomy = Black-fronted Brushfinch). 

The Paramo Area

One morning, we devoted to the search of the little known Perijá Thistletailregional endemic Furnariid of high altitudes. We reached the Paramo-like habitat very early on a chilly but cloudless morning. And most important: almost no wind, and actually quite a rare occasion up here! 

Tawny-breasted Tinamou sang in the Valley below. Little trails leading into the forest were very tempting, but we didn’t have time to explore them. The song of Perija Thistletail immediately caught our attention, instead.

With the help of a little playback, we lured the bird completely out into the open. Camilla took an excellent photos of this individual, and I was able to take immaculate sound recordings.

As the morning progressed, the first rays of light warmed us and general bird activity increased. An Andean Pygmy-Owl sat out in the open and was mobbed by Perijá MetaltailsWhite-throated Tyrannulets2 Chestnut-breasted ChlorophoniasCommon ChlorospingusSlaty BrushfinchLacrimose Mountain-Tanager (ssp. pallididorsalis) and Blue-backed Conebill! What a flock.

Close by we saw Mountain Wren and heard the very distinct (and different to other populations) song of Rufous Antpitta. Rumor has it, that finally after almost 30 years of research, the split in the Rufous Antpitta complex is neigh! The saltuensis ssp. of the Perija Mountains will surely be elevated to species level. Further down activity dwindled but we saw a beautiful Golden-breasted Fruiteater 

Manaure

Unfortunately, it was time to wrap up things at Vereda San Antonio and head back to Manaure. Here we stayed at the charming Villa Adelaida for the night. Around their garden, we logged a scatter of common species like Red-crowned WoodpeckersBicolored WrensCrested OropendolasRufous-capped Warblers and Black-headed Tanagers.

But the best bird here was definitely the beautiful Golden-winged Sparrow. This was as well, our last excursion the highly memorable and interesting FamTrip with Sula. A difficult call, but for me, maybe the visit to the Perija Mountains ornithologically-wise constituted the highlight of this trip. Always save best for last, right?  

We fared well to our guide José Louis Ropero, and the next morning we hit the road back to Bogotá on a long and unexpectedly long journey. But that’s a different story just watch the video!

References
  • Serranía del Perijá: Geografía, capital humano, economía y medio ambiente. Author María Aguilera Díaz. Banco de la República (read here)
  • BirdLife International (2020) Important Bird Areas factsheet: Cerro Pintado (Serranía de Perijá). Downloaded from http://www.birdlife.org on 25/08/2020.
About the authors

Jérôme Fischer

Professional bird guide, swiss native, with more than 32 years of experience guiding hardcore birders and birdwatching tours. Jérôme has been focused on bird identification. He also traveled to many countries,  starting in Switzerland. Then he traveled exploring South America, the most biodiverse continent in the world, becoming specialized in Neotropical birds.

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Ecotourism at Otún Quimbaya Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Just 50 minutes outside Pereira lies the well-known, famed for its many rare and sought-after species, Otún Quimbaya Flora and Fauna Sanctuary. Clearly, this Sanctuary should be put on the birding map by any birder intending to visit one of the major birding areas in the country!

I did so for the first time two years ago and been fortunate to revisit on several other occasions. It’s this very first visit over a time span of several days, that lingers so well in my birding memories, as it was one of the best birding experiences I had so far in Colombia! 

Community-based Ecotourism Destination

Tou can easily access the sanctuary via good tarmac – after the town of La Florida – dirt road. The Otún Quimbaya Flora and Fauna Sanctuary have charming accommodations, and it is managed by the Yarumo Blanco Foundation, a local community-based tourism association. 

They manage all reservations for your stay and also provide the service of local bird guides (at extra cost) which are mandatory if walking the reserves short trails. Since 2017, under an agreement between the company Aguas y Aguas de Pereira and the Community Association Yarumo Blanco, ecotourism is a conservation strategy in the region.

Thus, the visit to the protected area requires a mandatory accompaniment by an environmental interpreter and coverage by a medical assistance policy.

Birding at Otún Quimbaya

Cauca Guan – Penelope perspicax ENDEMIC

The Lodge Clearing

The lodge clearing itself is the best area for the endemic Cauca Guan, which is very easily seen in Cecropias and other trees around the clearing. Some Guans even walk on the lawn in search of fallen fruits. Do not be fooled by its common appearance. The Guan has a very small restricted range and is placed as critically endangered by Birdlife!  

Otun River Point

Good birding starts about 8 km before the reserve’s entrance. The first bridge just before a barrier over the Otun River is a good lookout point for Torrent DuckTorrent Tyrannulet, and Black Phoebe. Watch for Green-fronted Lancebill, which sometimes hovers above the water surface to catch insects. 

2 – 4 km before the lodge points

Anyway, from this point the birding gets only better. You’ll pass mainly pasture land, bordered by second-growth forest. Around the pastures watch for several Seedeater and Grassquit species, omnipresent Bare-faced IbisSouthern Lapwings & others. But it’s these forest patches, which can pay dividends if lucky and birded thoroughly.

The best patches are about 2 – 4 km before the lodge. Several endemic species like Greyish Piculet, together with the iconic Multicolored Tanager (which goes with mixed flocks, and for sure is on the wish list of about every birder visiting Colombia) and Parker’s Antbird occur. I birded this area mainly in the afternoon when I found it very productive when many of the forest trails were quiet. 

La Suiza point

Around the small hamlet of La Suiza (about 2 km before the reserve), a taller forest appears and Red-ruffed Fruitcrow is easily seen. This is definitely the best place to see this enigmatic Cotinga species. For some reason, this bird is common here. 

Red-ruffed Fruitcrow – Pyroderus scutatus

Several other good species can be observed in the clearing. Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, Bar-crested AntshrikeMontane Foliage-gleanerGolden-faced Tyrannulet, several Tanagers (incl. sometimes Multicolored, and Crested Ant-tanager). At night listen for Colombian Screech-Owl singing just outside the gates. 

El Cedral Road

The road to El Cedral (and especially the area around El Cedral) draws the attention of many birders. The road ends after about 6 km at the lodge clearing and is reached by walking (for the hardy), Chiva (for the let’s do it the local way-ones), or 4×4 (for most of you) which can be arranged by personal of Yarumo Blanco. 

On this road up to El Cedral, there is no mandatory accompaniment by a local guide, you can bird on your own. 

The Hooded Antpitta Territory

Just at the very end of this road about 500 meters before El Cedral, one of Colombia’s most sought-after species –Hooded Antpitta – holds territory. The discovery of this bird in the wild is recent. Its occurrence was long shrouded in clouds and mystery. Although the Antpitta occurs just about in neighboring Venezuela too (areas out of reach for birders), El Cedral is probably the most easily accessed site for this enigmatic, cryptic species 

You have to arrive very early – or late. The bird vocalizes first thing in the morning and to a lesser degree in the evening. Knowing its inconspicuous vocalization is key in order to locate it. Once done so, watch for every movement in some more open forest understory along the road.

The bird moves seemingly invisible through the forest understory and likes to perch on mossy branches just above the forest floor. Avoid using playback. Playback makes the bird taped out, and it does not respond to it anymore. In fact, it makes it only harder to locate. The best strategy is to find a good spot and sit very quietly, wait & watch!  

My first encounter with the Hooded Antpitta

I remember my first visit to Otún, enjoying sitting motionless in that incredible forest, waiting in vain for my quarry to appear, as sunlight just broke into forest understory. While doing so, several other species like Spotted Barbtail and Chestnut-capped Brushfinch coming close, right next to me.

It was just out of the corner of my eyes, I glimpsed a movement next to a mossy branch. A splint of second and an adrenaline rush later, one of the least known neotropical bird species hopped onto a horizontal branch. I was able to observe, take photos and videos of Hooded Antpitta.

During the course of about 2 hours, the bird appeared on two more occasions. After almost being soaked by dripping trees, I got back onto the road with one of my most memorable birding experiences in the bag.  

The Mixed Flocks

But the morning began. I walked all the way back to the lodge and hit 2 large mixed flocks. One contained the several difficult to see Tyrannids like Ashy-headed-, Sulphur-bellied TyrannuletVariegated– & Marble-faced Bristle-TyrantRufous-breasted Flycatcher, Rusty-winged Barbtail & several other Furnariids.

The second flock contained Multicolored & various other TanagersIn between, I was able to coax Stile’s Tapaculo out into the open and obtained rare views of Moustached Antpitta. 

Further, there were sluggish Moustached Puffbirds, brilliant Andean Cock-of-the-RockBronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant & many moreFever pitch birding. It was just one of those days when everything comes together, just right. 

On several other occasions, the same area was very quiet and birding difficult, as many birds stay high in trees. It’s just about getting the right weather conditions and being at the right place at the right time… 

Above El Cedral Trail

If all this shouldn’t be enough for you, you can always keep continuing birding the trail beyond and above El Cedral into Ucumari National park… After 3 hours walk, you reach Refuge “La Pastora”. Another birding heaven awaits, where many species of higher altitude (similar to Rio Blanco) occur. But to tell you about that is part of another story… 

Hiking at Otún Quimbaya

Internal trails

With three internal trails enabled for tours, in Otún Quimbaya you can enjoy environmental education activities, in the company of local environmental interpreters, and learn about the biodiversity of the Andean forest and its important connection with the Upper Basin of the Otún River.

These trails are of low difficulty and the local interpreter will lead you through landscapes of trails, paths, and mountains, to discover the green legacy of the Pearl of Otún.

Towards La Pastora

To live an unforgettable experience when visiting the mountains among the thickness of the cloud forest bathed by rivers and crystalline waterfalls, you can stay one night in the Refuge “La Pastora” in the Regional Natural Park Ucumarí. This hike is of high intensity, as it is a 7 km high-difficulty route along a muleteer’s road that goes into the Otún River basin.

Visit Los Frailes waterfall

Los Frailes Waterfall – Otún Quimbaya Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Finally, one of the main attractions of the territory is the Los Frailes waterfall, an impressive natural attraction with a free fall of more than 90 meters, it is a memorable tour to do in the company of family and friends.

This activity is ideal for people looking for recreation and connection with nature. It is a low-difficulty tour, which in the company of a Local Environmental Interpreter, will take you to discover the green legacy of the Pearl of Otún.

Click here to make a virtual tour of the waterfall!

Sports

In the sanctuary, there are multiple courts, enabled for the practice of football, basketball, and volleyball. You and your friends or family will always be able to make use of the sports areas and enjoy the relaxation typical of the rural area.

Look at our specialized tours and visit this Sanctuary in Risaralda!

About the authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Jérôme Fischer

Professional bird guide, swiss native, with more than 32 years of experience guiding hardcore birders and birdwatching tours. Jérôme has been focused on bird identification. He also traveled to many countries,  starting in Switzerland. Then he traveled exploring South America, the most biodiverse continent in the world, becoming specialized in Neotropical birds.

Visit the Mana Dulce Reserve, 50 years Conserving a Humid Enclave in the Tropical Dry Forest

The Tropical dry forest represents 22% of the forests in South America. In Colombia, the tropical dry forest was originally distributed in the regions of the Caribbean plain and the inter-Andean valleys of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers between 0 and 1000 m of altitude. Today it only remains 8% of its original extension.

The Inter Andean Valleys Dry Forest of Colombia

Inter Andean Tropical Dry Forest from ana Dulce Reserve

In the region of the inter-Andean valleys, the tropical dry forest is distributed in the departments of Valle del Cauca, Tolima, Huila, Cundinamarca, and Antioquia, covering approximately 1’650.000 hectares.

The dry forests of the inter-Andean valleys have similar vegetation to the dry forest of the Caribbean plain, suggesting that in a remote past these regions were connected, constituting a corridor to the dry coastal areas of Ecuador and Peru.

There are several woody plant species restricted to the dry forests of inter-Andean valleys. There are also some bird species restricted to this habitat. For the arid zones and tropical dry forest of the inter-Andean valleys of the Cauca and Magdalena rivers the following birds are registered as endemic: Red-legged Tinamou (Crypturellus erythropus), Chestnut-winged Chachalaca (Ortalis garrula), and Velvet-fronted Euphonia (Euphonia concinna), which are associated with the tropical dry forest.

Mana Dulce Civil Society Nature Reserve

The Mana Dulce Civil Society Nature Reserve is located in the Inter-Andean valley of the Magdalena River, in the department of Cundinamarca. Its distinct avifauna of tropical dry, deciduous forest, only about 3 hours away from Bogota, immediately caught our interest. Its dry climate is appealing and it is the total opposite to the lush and wet forests of Amazonia.

Fifty years ago, Mr. Helio Mendoza saw in the relics of the tropical dry forest of the Alto Magdalena an opportunity to reconnect with nature. He first bought 20 hectares, where he built a colonial house for his family.

Little by little, he completed about 90 hectares full of trees from the tropical dry forest, an almost extinct ecosystem in the country.

Mana Dulce Reserve House

In 2002 the family managed to convert this land into a civil society natural reserve where today an ecotourism project is being carried out. In this place, there are natural caves with bats, viewpoints, trails opened by animals, and a water source in the middle of the tropical dry forest, hence the name of the reserve.

There are trails decorated with native trees such as ceibas and palms more than 150 years old and 30 meters high; a natural spring with 200 years of life; an old stone bridge, which is said to be the third natural stone bridge built in Colombia; the Chimbilacera cave, four meters high and 20 meters deep, where 19 species of bats live; and the viewpoint “Mirador del Indio Malachí”, which offers a panoramic view of the dry forest of the Alto Magdalena.

Birding at Mana Dulce Nature Reserve

As you may have guessed, the avifauna of Mana Dulce Reserve is intriguingly similar to the drier forests of the Caribbean CoastAlthough species diversity is smaller in dry forests than in humid forests, it is a highly interesting ecosystem.

It might not appear at first glance, but this ecosystem is equally threatened by habitat destruction (clearing for cattle pasture, frequent fires) as most other forest types in Latin America. 

We hopped on public transport in Bogota and settled for a 4 days stay. Accommodation is available within the property of the private reserve. Get more information via Facebook. Three meals were included in the modest price.  

The two main birding areas are several easy Loop-tails through the forest of the property, starting just next to the farm, and along the access road to the reserve. There are accessible trails outside the reserve that can be explored. They have much of the same species as the trails within Mana Dulce Reserve. 

A Colombian endemic confined to dry forests of the Magdalena valley: Velvet-fronted Euphonia – Euphonia concinna.

Birding early hours is key, as it gets very hot after 10 o’clockOne of the star attractions is easily seen: The endemic Velvet-fronted EuphoniaIt frequently visits and even nests right next to the main building. 

Colombian Chachalacas (endemic), are easily located by their loud calls. Apical Flycatcher (yes, another endemic) can be found at several sites close to the building. Another main targets are Pheasant Cuckoo which likes to sing at night. Listen for its simple plaintive song here.

Barred Puffbird, Dwarf CuckooRed-billed Scythebill, Greenish ElaeniaCinereous Becard, Lance-tailed Manakin, White-eared Conebill are among the many quality birds to be looked for. 

White-fringed Antwren – Formicivora grisea

White-fringed Antwren, Barred-, Black-crowned AntshrikeJet– and White-bellied Antbirds represent the Thamnophilds.  The drab Tyrannids, Southern Beardless-, Mouse-colored TyrannuletPearly-vented Tody-TyrantPale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant & Euler’s Flycatcher blend perfectly in the barren surrounding. 

Rufous-tailed JacamarRufous-capped Warbler & Orange-crowned Oriole for sure, add some color! 

There are several more common & and widespread species like Whooping MotmotRufous-browed PeppershrikeScrub GreenletBlack-chested Jay & Black-faced Grassquit to keep one entertained. 

White-bellied Antbird – Myrmeciza longipes

Pale-eyed Pygmy-tyrant – Atalotriccus pilaris

Fuscous Flycatcher – Cnemotriccus fuscatus

This reserve is not often visited by tour groups and even individual birders. But its easy access, quality birding, and tranquility make it a prime destination for those who wish to visit a reserve of the well-established birding routes in Colombia. 

References
  • Tropical Dry Forest of Colombia. Biological Resources Research Institute Alexander von Humboldt.
  • The Tropical Dry Forest in Colombia (Bs-T). Alexander von Humboldt Institute. Biodiversity Inventory Program. Group of Explorations and Environmental Monitoring GEMA. 1998.
  • Semana Rural On-line Journal
About the authors

Sara Colmenares 

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching. 

Jérôme Fischer

Professional bird guide, swiss native, with more than 32 years of experience guiding hardcore birders and birdwatching tours. Jérôme has been focused on bird identification. He also traveled to many countries,  starting in Switzerland. Then he traveled exploring South America, the most biodiverse continent in the world, becoming specialized in Neotropical birds.